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Jewels in the Middle East: History and Tradition
 
Jewels and Phoenicians

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One of the remarkable events in the history of jewels is the discovery of gold between 4000 and 2000 BC. In Antiquity (from -3500 to 600), on the Mediterranean shores, gold fast became the preferred metal for jewel makers: being very flexible, it could be easily worked. Around 3000 BC, a huge number of gold items were found at the Egyptians’ pertaining to several queens; these included diadems, earrings, necklaces… Excavations made at the tomb of Tutankhamen (born around -1345 and dead around -1327, noting that certain specialists don’t agree with these dates) show the importance of this metal: discovered in 1922 by a British archeologist, several burial golden items were found in the grave. Around 1400 BC, Greece witnessed the discovery of a new form of jewelry: pearls made in nature-related shapes such as shells, flowers and scarabs. Made in big quantities, Greek jewels were multicolored: in addition to pearls, they included emeralds, garnets, amethysts as well as glass and enamel.

In the region currently called Lebanon, Phoenicians took credit for jewelry development, since the late second millennium and during the first millennium before Christ. Phoenicians have, undoubtedly, benefited from the knowledge conferred by their trips: the contacts they had with several civilizations and cultures enabled them to collect ideas, models and techniques. The designs found in Phoenician jewels reflect that they were influenced by various cultures: from Greece, Egypt and Asia Minor. It is thought that they might have learnt, for example, the techniques of gold granulation in particular, from Etruscans (a civilization born in the 8th century BC, located in Tuscany). Etruscans from Tuscany are the ones who gave gold that grainy aspect, producing high-quality jewels and making thus Italian jewels one of the most elegant jewels in the world, and such is the case until today. Note: Phoenicians did not settle for imitating their neighbors; they were also gifted artists in design.

Today, Phoenician jewels can be found in various museums. For instance, the Carthage museum comprises a Phoenician necklace made of pearls, electrum pendants (natural combination of gold and silver, highly prized in the antiquity period). This necklace with granulations was discovered in Tunisia and dates back to the 7th century BC. Another piece was found in the South of Spain: a bracelet with ornaments in the form of golden beads decorated with delicate granulations. Clearly influenced by the Egyptian style, this jewel can be found in the National Archeological Museum in Madrid.

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